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August 2021
Issue 150
Hello Great Gardeners,

Yeah! We got some much-needed rain this week.

So school is starting to gear up this week at LV. My daughter is an official Freshman. It seems like yesterday that I was bringing her home from the hospital. In four more years, she will be heading off to college.

With that said, those who are heading off to college might want to think about stocking up on a houseplant or two. Studies have shown that having plants can boost one's ability to maintain attention. So one or two, maybe even three or four sitting around the dorm room, can be good to have around when studying.
As always, if you have any questions, comments or suggestions, hit reply. I would love to hear from you. Have a great-gardening day.

Lets Talk Mums
Mums add a touch of color to the late summer garden. When everything else is starting to die off, they are just coming into bloom. They are one of the most popular flowers in the world, next to the rose.

Garden Mums do not bloom simultaneously, and in the world of retail, they get categorized into Early, Mid, or Late season bloomers.
Unfortunately, bloom time is not an exact science and depends on the plants surrounding environment. Temperatures in the upper 80's and '90s may push back bloom time, whereas cooler temperatures may make them bloom sooner.

Early season: End of August/beginning of September.
Midseason: Mid to late-September
Late season: Beginning of October

Many questions arise on whether or not garden mums can come back year after year. Not all varieties can. Here at Wilson's, we carry 'Igloo' mums that are hardier than others, along with other garden mums that are not as hardy.

It truly depends on the winter weather. To try to overwinter, we recommend with all mums that once the foliage has turned brown for the season, to leave it up. Apply a layer of mulch around the base once the ground has frozen. In the spring, trim back the foliage and remove the mulch from around the plants.

Now can you overwinter garden mums in their pots?
Not easily, if the soil freezes completely solid in the container, the roots will die. You can try bringing them into an unheated garage or basement and placing straw and mulch around the base of the pots. Once a month, water them and check for any problems. Bring the plants back outside into a sunny spot in the spring, protecting them from any hard freezes.

We recommend getting your plants into the ground as soon as possible to give them their best chances of survival.

Like other plants, garden mums need consistent watering. They can not survive prolonged periods of no water, especially when first planted.

Garden mums need deadheading to keep them looking their best. As the flowers fade, trim them off to the next leaf node. They will bloom for many weeks in your garden.
Seeding Grass
The best time to sow grass is from late August to late September. Lawns can be started at other times but need extra care to keep the area watered until the seed is established.

Establishing A New Lawn:
  • Have your soil tested if possible. Your local county extension service can help you with this.
  • Make plans for necessary grading and the addition of soil amendments and topsoil according to the recommendation.
  • Choose the proper grass seed for the site. Use a sunny mix for full sun locations, shade mixes for shade, and a blended blend for those areas that are not full sun or full shade.
  • Work the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Rake, so the ground is level providing a crumbly (not fine) top layer. Remove any stones.
  • Spread your seed according to the package directions. Lightly cover the grass seed with topsoil or Bumper Crop Soil Conditioner. Apply the starter fertilizer at this stage, as well.
  • (Do not use regular lawn fertilizer, which is high in Nitrogen, great for when your grass is growing, but not for sowing!)
  • Lightly straw the area, one bale per 1000 square feet, is about right. You may get some of your straw (wheat or oat) growing also. Don’t worry; mowing will eliminate them later.
  • Water lightly and frequently (3 to 4 times per day) using a fine spray. Keep the area moist, not wet, and do not let it dry out. Once the seed germinates and gets off to a good start, gradually reduce the watering to a regular watering schedule.
  • Cut the lawn after it reaches 3 inches high. You can use a complete fertilizer six weeks after seedling emergence. Do not use any herbicides until after three cuttings.
Reseeding An Existing Lawn:
  • Rake the lawn to remove thatch and debris. The more soil you expose without stripping away the turf, the better. The seed must reach and contact the ground for success.
  • Spread the seed. After spreading, lightly rake the turf to allow more seed to fall into the grooves created by your seedbed preparation. Usually, there is enough thatch and existing turf to act as a mulch. If not, a light covering of Bumper Crop or peat will do the job.
  • Apply the starter fertilizer.
  • Try to keep foot traffic to a minimum and follow the same principles for watering, mowing, and fertilizing as establishing a new lawn.
Garden Mums
9 Inch Pot
5 or more $8.99 ea
(Regular $9.99 ea)
Does Not Include: Igloo Or Tricolor Mums
Garden Mum Fun Facts
Called Chrysanthemums

In Japan, September 9th is celebrated as National Chrysanthemum Day.

Chemicals from Chrysanthemums are used in insecticides.

Chrysanthemum symbolizes happiness, joy, love or grief, depending on the color and the human culture.

Is the birth flower of the November.

Official flower to celebrate 13th wedding anniversary.
Aerating & Dethatching Your Lawn
Aerating: perforating the soil with small holes that allow water, air, and fertilizer to get closer to the roots. Enables lawns to grow more deeply, producing a more vigorous lawn.
* Aerating is usually performed when the soil has become so compacted that it restricts air and water movement to the roots. An example would be a footpath worn into a lawn.
* Other signs that aeration is needed:
A. Poor drainage
B. Failure to turn green after fertilizing
C. Worn areas and paths
* In general, you should aerate an intensively maintained lawn about once a year.
* Lawns with moderate maintenance need aerating every two years or so.
* Lawns with severe thatch problems or heavily compacted soils may require two aerations per year.
Dethatching: A process that cuts through and brings thatch to the surface of the lawn. Usually performed every other year, depending on the grass.
* Thatch is a material comprised of decomposing grass stems, dead roots, and debris that accumulate above the soil and below grass blades. It prevents water, fertilizers, and insecticides from penetrating and reaching the ground.
* A lawn with a buildup of thatch is spongy to walk on.
* Thatch is beneficial in buffering soil temperatures and adds to the lawn's resilience, reducing soil compaction in heavily used areas. However, when thatch becomes too thick, generally .5 Inches or more, it becomes water repellent which insects and diseases find especially pleasing.
* Thatch can accumulate faster than usual in Kentucky bluegrass lawns and in very acidic lawns, where the microorganisms that decompose thatch are less active (active in a pH of 6.0 -7.0).
* The best time to de-thatch is late spring or early fall.
* The most effective way to de-thatch a home lawn is with a vertical mower (a series of vertical knives used to cut through the thatch and bring it to the surface). After eliminating a large amount of thatch, apply a complete fertilizer and water it to help your lawn recover.
Wilson's Garden Center
10923 Lambs Ln.
Newark, Ohio. 43055

740-763-2874 (Fax)

August Hours:
Sunday - Thursday:
8 am - 5 pm
Friday & Saturday:
8 am - 6 pm
Closed Labor Day!
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We are a family owned and operated garden center specializing in plants that thrive in Central Ohio

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